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Q: Do collagen creams really work? Is it a miracle or a marketing myth?
Many over-the-counter (OTC) skin creams and lotions today promise to do more than moisturize the skin. They also claim to reduce wrinkles and prevent or reverse damage caused by aging and sun exposure. Do they work? Some research suggests that wrinkle creams contain ingredients that may improve wrinkles. But many of these ingredients haven't been subjected to intensive research that proves this benefit.
What won’t work?
Collagen
Collagen is a large, fibrous protein that keeps your skin supple and elastic. Collagen diminishes with age, contributing to wrinkling and sagging.
- Claim.
Firms the skin while minimizing the appearance of fine lines.
- The facts.
Many skin creams contain collagen, which supposedly nourishes the skin and reverses the signs of aging. But collagen isn't absorbed through the skin and doesn't increase the body's production of collagen. Applying a collagen cream may give the sensation of firmness, but it's probably due to skin hydration that could be achieved by using any moisturizer.
What may actually work?
Vitamin A (retinol)
Retinol is a vitamin A derivative and is the first antioxidant to be widely used in OTC wrinkle creams. Antioxidants are substances that neutralize free radicals — unstable oxygen molecules that break down skin cells and cause wrinkles. Retinol is less potent than the vitamin A derivative tretinoin, the only prescription topical treatment approved by the Food and Drug Administration for treating wrinkles. Both retinol and tretinoin can cause redness and irritation in people with sensitive skin, but these side effects can be prevented by adequate skin hydration.
- Claim.
Works deep below the skin's surface to smooth wrinkles.
- Found in:
Astique’s Glow Night I, Enhance Night I and Enhance Day I
- The facts.
Retinol concentration varies from product to product, and the FDA warns that some OTC preparations may contain almost no retinol so beware! An effective form of retinoid from a reliable source will however increase cell turnover to reveal finer and more luminous skin, reduce the effects of ageing and reduce comedone formation.
Alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA)
Alpha-hydroxy acids are derived from natural food sources such as fruits (eg. glycolic acid from sugarcane, malic acid from apples, citric acid from citrus fruits) and milk products (lactic acid). They gently exfoliate surface dull dead skin and reduce the appearance of enlarged pores and fine lines. They also increase the penetration and effectiveness of other active ingredients in skin products.
- Claim.
Diminishes brown spots and other skin irregularities. Produces firm, toned skin and a smoother complexion.
- Found in:
Astique’s Lightener Night
- The facts.
Alpha-hydroxy acids appear to reduce brown spots and refine skin texture.
Vitamin C
Vitamin C is an antioxidant nutrient that helps recycle vitamin E. It also promotes collagen formation and reduces melanin synthesis.
- Claim.
Repairs and protects skin by stimulating cell renewal and increasing healthy circulation.
- Found in.
Astique’s Miracle Eye Cream
- The facts.
Topical vitamin C may reduce wrinkles, thicken skin, lighten pigmentation and protect against sun damage. It's difficult to manufacture and degrades rapidly, however, so it must be stored in airtight, light-resistant containers. Many of the first vitamin C products couldn't penetrate the skin deeply enough to be effective, but newer products may be more absorbent.
Q: The more I shave, the more I get these tiny “pimples” on my face. This only happened after I moved to Singapore, never when I lived in the UK. Give me one good reason why I shouldn’t pack my bags and leave straight away.
(The food in Singapore is better.) Of course we can also give you some tips for clearing up your skin. You could be suffering from folliculitis which is infection of the hair follicle aggravated by shaving. Use a mild foaming cleanser like Astique’s Clean I daily. Follow with Astique’s Pores III in the morning and Clarity Night in the evening to unclog congested pores and clear dead skin cells, and banish the bacteria with Clear Night IV daily. You can also dab on Clear Day III on those troublesome spots and your face should be clear once again, even if you are in sunny Singapore!
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